Notch
An indentation where the collar meets the lapel.
Our everyday starting point for an understated single-breasted suit.
THE STYLE GUIDE / 02
Frame your expression.
The lapel, fastening and button position work together. Begin with a shape you enjoy, then consider its proportion within the whole jacket.
01
Three distinct lines.
Peak
A pointed edge extending upward and outward.
Our recommendation for a more defined visual statement.
Shawl
A continuous rounded line without a notch or peak.
A direction to explore for evening dress with your consultant.
Simplified shape illustrations, not cutting patterns. Availability depends on the garment and agreed design.
02
Width is a relationship.
Our recommendation: look at the lapel alongside the jacket’s shoulder line, chest and fastening point. Avoid choosing a width from a number alone.
Restrained
A quieter visual line. Compare it with the whole jacket rather than choosing by a number alone.
Balanced
A middle point for comparison, not a required proportion for every customer.
Expressive
A fuller lapel with more visual presence. Consider it alongside the cloth and occasion.
The same simplified jacket is shown with three lapel widths. These are visual comparisons, not measurements or fixed product options.
04
Consider the fastening point.
Button stance describes where the jacket fastens, which also relates to where the lapel ends.
Our recommendation: assess that point with the jacket length, waist shaping and trouser rise. Avoid promises that one higher or lower position will flatter everyone.
See the fastening point
The brass ring marks the upper fastening on this two-button illustration. Read that position together with the lapel, waist shaping and jacket length.
DRESSING FOR THE EVENING?
The tuxedo has its own language.
Continue into lapel facings, evening silhouettes and the details of black tie.
KEEP THE CONVERSATION MOVING
Consider the evening.
Explore the next detail, or bring your questions to the consultant.
Your Suit. Your Rules.
Every garment starts with a conversation. We take your measurements, understand your lifestyle, and build something that's entirely yours — ready in 6 to 8 weeks.